Sardinia holidays in autumn: fancy a second spring?
Hard to believe, but true: when nature prepares for hibernation here in autumn, it is just waking up again in Sardinia. The ‘siesta’ is over! The summer was simply too warm and too dry for the few raindrops to quench the thirst of the macchia. That's why the vegetation takes a break in summer and then awakens to a second spring. For this reason, a holiday in Sardinia in autumn is a very special experience.
Autumnal splendour: the macchia in Sardinia
In autumn, one landscape in Sardinia is particularly beautiful: the macchia. This is a type of vegetation typical of the Mediterranean. It is found mainly on Mediterranean islands, where it has not yet been displaced by cultivated landscapes. The macchia is a rather impenetrable, jungle-like scrub, formed from very specific bushes, shrubs and small trees. It would be going too far to list all the plant species individually, but I would like to briefly introduce some particularly interesting ones.
The Sardinian maquis: a spice rack and medicine cabinet
Lavender, thyme, rosemary and sage, for example, are typical maquis plants that have enriched our cuisine in a lasting way.
The myrtle has a dual nature: on the one hand, it is considered a symbol of virginal purity, while on the other, its berries and flowers are used to make a wonderfully aromatic digestif liqueur, Sardinian mirto. Myrtle leaves are also used to serve the famous Sardinian suckling pig. The corbezzolo, also known as the strawberry tree, blooms and bears bright red fruit at the same time. It is the source of ‘miele amaro’ (bittersweet honey), a very rare and correspondingly expensive delicacy that is praised in Sardinia as a panacea for flu and colds.
Broom in Sardinia: yellow blossoms, indestructible building material
Finally, we should mention broom, a gnarled, low-growing tree with the most durable wood in existence. At least, that is what the Sardinians claim, and anyone who looks at the broom beam that still serves as the lintel of a several thousand-year-old hut in the village of Tiscali will believe it.
The macchia in Sardinia in autumn: a paradise for hikers
The combination of these and many other plants is responsible for the typical macchia scent that covers the entire island during the vegetation phases. We have guests who come to Sardinia just for this reason, and I can understand why. After all, it makes sense that the two springs on the island are also the most favourable times for hiking in terms of climate. Of course, sunbathing and swimming are still wonderful activities in Sardinia in autumn. Those who can't decide between hiking and the beach during their autumn holidays in Sardinia will find an excursion tip below that combines both in an ideal way.
From the maquis to the sea: a hike to Berchida beach
If you want to see and enjoy the maquis, we recommend a trip to the dream beach of Berchida and the former Su Meriacru riding stable. (Directions: From Budoni, drive for just under 30 minutes on the SS 125 to Capo Comino. After Capo Comino, look out for the red ‘Casa Cantoniera’. Turn left just before it and follow the signs.)
The last few kilometres lead through beautiful, dense macchia. All of this is a nature reserve, but with one exception: nestled in the macchia is the former Su Meriacru riding stable. If you stop here, you will find yourself in the middle of the macchia, dining under broom, oleander and blackthorn.
In this paradise-like spot, I like to eat ‘archaic’ food: flatbread, cheese, yoghurt, honey from the strawberry tree and a glass of wine. If you like hearty food, try suckling pig on myrtle leaves, served in bowls made of cork oak.
The beach is a designated nature reserve and attracts visitors with its fine white sand and crystal-clear turquoise-green water. The macchia and pine trees make ‘Spiaggia Berchida’ the perfect place to let all your stress melt away.
With a Sardinian ‘Adiosu’, I bid you farewell for today.
Yours, Joachim Waßmann