Sadali – The water village in Barbagia
Deep in the heart of Barbagia, nestled on the slopes of the Gennargentu massif, lies a magical place: Sadali, the ‘village of water’. Here, the wet element is omnipresent. It bubbles up from numerous springs, accompanies the ancient cobbled, winding alleys and collects in water basins. In the centre of the old town, next to the 9th-century parish church of San Valentino, it reveals itself in its most spectacular form – here, a 7-metre-high waterfall, the Cascata di San Valentino, rushes down. And as if all this were not romantic enough, there is a 17th-century watermill next to the waterfall. From here, the water continues to bubble down to the Sa Ucca Manna cave and from there flows into the irrigation systems for the gardens surrounding the village.
Where do these masses of water come from? The Gennargentu massif is a karst mountain range. It stores precipitation like a sponge – approximately 70% of the annual rainfall seeps into the depths of the rock and feeds streams and rivers. This is why Sadali is not left high and dry even in midsummer, even if the springs in the village flow a little more quietly than during the rest of the year.
A visit to Sadali, which is on the list of Italy's most beautiful villages, is appealing at any time of year. In summer, the Trenino Verde stops here, so you can combine your trip to Sadali with a journey through some of Sardinia's most spectacular landscapes. And, of course, the bubbling and murmuring of the cool watercourses is particularly pleasant in the hot season. Early autumn is the rainy season in Sadali, when the underground water reservoirs are replenished. In September, the water rushes particularly wildly, so weatherproof clothing is a must. The rain also causes mushrooms to sprout in the surrounding forests, so passionate collectors should bring a basket with them. Those who visit the village at the end of January will witness a traditional carnival spectacle: fires are lit in honour of Saints Antonio and Sebastian, and the villagers don archaic costumes and masks. Other festivities, such as the Sagra dei Curlugionis (a local speciality: ravioli filled with pecorino cheese, garlic and mint) and Valentine's Day, which is celebrated in Sadali on 6 October and is also a harvest festival, are among the highlights of the year for locals and visitors alike.
Thanks to its location not far from the Gennargentu National Park, Sadali is also a wonderful starting point for hikes (good footwear required). A visit to the Is Janas stalactite cave is a must. A hike to the Su Stampu de Su Turrunu waterfall is particularly pleasant in summer, as it is not only beautiful to look at, but also has a natural swimming pool.
With a Sardinian ‘Adiosu’, I bid you farewell for today.
Yours, Joachim Waßmann
Images: Waterfall in Sadali by Marco Alioli, Creative Commons; In the vicinity of Sadali by carva822, Creative Commons; Su Stampu de Su Turrunu waterfall by zipckr, Creative Commons