Mirto from Sardinia – a ‘spirited’ fairy tale
Today, I would like to reveal the secret of Mirto and why I am particularly fond of Mirto Rosso. The Sardinians are masters at refining the fruits of their island in an ingenious way. The island's white and red wines enjoy an excellent reputation worldwide. The production of spirits, on the other hand, is still in its infancy. There are now professional producers, but they lead a shadowy existence in Sardinia because every Sardinian family swears by the recipes handed down by their grandfathers.
Whenever I visit friends, I ask them to explain their “secret” liqueur tricks to me. In fact, the recipes differ very little from one another, but the results do. I conclude that the ‘materia prima’, i.e. the raw material used, is of crucial importance. It is important to use fruit that is at the right stage of ripeness and to determine its second ripening period in alcohol with a great deal of sensitivity.
The region's high-proof spirits include various types of grappa and liqueurs made from citrus fruits, nuts, manna ash juice, liquorice root and the flowers, leaves and fruits of the myrtle bush. The grappa varieties reach up to 65% alcohol, while the sweet liqueurs rarely contain more than 35% alcohol.
My favourite liqueur: Mirto
My favourite liqueur from Sardinia is Mirto Rosso. It rounds off the popular Sardinian Sunday menu wonderfully. I still remember the first time I was served this fabulously good liqueur. I had eaten far too much and hinted to my host that I was feeling slightly unwell due to my overfilled stomach. ‘No problem,’ he replied, ‘we'll fix that right away!’ Then he disappeared into the next room and came back with a beer bottle, from which he served me a thick juice. ‘Sciroppo?’ I asked doubtfully. ‘No, no, bevi!’ The command to drink the supposed syrup was so firm that I overcame my suspicion and obeyed. ‘Jägermeister?’ I wanted to know. He shook his head and poured me another. ‘Drink up, you'll feel better in a minute!’ He was right. My stomach stopped rebelling after I had taken a generous amount of the delicious medicine. However, today I am sometimes unsure what caused this effect. Undoubtedly, the medicine had not only had a beneficial effect on my stomach, but also on my brain. It may therefore be that my consciousness only perceived the condition of my stomach in a hazy way.
In fact, I would classify Mirto as belonging to the family of bitter liqueurs such as Jägermeister and Underberg. Unlike these, however, it derives its beneficial effects from a single plant, namely the myrtle bush. Myrtle is native to the Mediterranean maquis and contributes its ripe fruits, flowers and leaf tips to the production of Mirto. The ripe berries – which look similar to blueberries – are harvested from November onwards. These are used to make the strong Mirto Rosso. The flowers and fresh leaves, on the other hand, are used to make the gently fragrant Mirto Bianco.
Make your own Mirto: The recipe for Mirto Rosso
If you visit Sardinia during the winter months, don't miss the opportunity to make your own Mirto. The pure alcohol required for this can be found in any supermarket at a bargain price of around £10 per litre. That makes 5 bottles of really good schnapps! Here is the recipe to try.
You will need:
- 1 litre of pure alcohol
- 800 g of myrtle berries
- 600 g of sugar
- 1 litre of water
Harvest and wash the berries. Place them in sealable containers (Weck jars or pickle jars) and cover with alcohol so that the berries are 2-3 cm below the surface. Store in a dark place for approx. 25–40 days. (The longer you leave it, the more tart the liqueur will be.) Then filter the mixture and press the berries through a clean kitchen towel to ensure that none of the aroma or colour is lost. First, dissolve the sugar in boiling water and leave it to cool. Then mix the myrtle juice and the sugar water. The liqueur is now ready to drink, but it will develop a more rounded flavour if stored in a cool, dark place for 2 months. Give it a try, but remember: the rule ‘the more, the better’ is not always true. I speak from experience!
Die Myrte, ein mythisches Gewächs
Myrtle, a mythical plant
Incidentally, myrtle berries are not only used to make liqueur, but are also popular as a spice. A suckling pig served on myrtle branches has an inimitable aroma. For the ancient Greeks, however, the myrtle branch had a very special meaning. It was dedicated to the goddess Aphrodite and stood for love and virginity. That is why myrtle was also a popular component of the wreaths worn in the hair of brides in our region, a tradition that has almost been forgotten today. It is like in a fairy tale: ‘C'era una volta ...’, ‘Once upon a time ...’
Mirto from Sardinia, on the other hand, has survived the centuries intact. It is and remains fabulously good.
With a Sardinian ‘Adiosu’, we bid you farewell for today.
Joachim Waßmann