Every year again – Christmas in Sardinia
My loyal readers already know that I love Sardinia, especially at Christmas time. Of course, you won't find the much-vaunted white Christmas here, unless you head to Sardinia's only ski resort on Bruncu Spina. But that's mostly no different in large parts of Germany.
Instead, there are Christmas citrus fruits such as oranges and mandarins straight from the tree and the beguiling scent of blossoms to go with them, because citrus trees can do both at the same time – blossom and bear fruit. The temperatures are pleasantly mild at 14 to 16 degrees, even if only the most hardy will venture into the sea at this time of year. And the days are still an hour and a half longer than here in the grim north. Anyone who finds the darkness of winter at home particularly oppressive will appreciate this.
However, it is important to be aware that the Italian concept of Christmas differs from the German tradition. Contemplation is literally a foreign word here; it is colourful, loud and cheerful. Of course, this does not prevent holidaymakers from celebrating Christmas quietly and solemnly, especially if they have rented a holiday home. Meanwhile, the Sardinians gather on Christmas Eve for a large family feast. In the past, this was one of the rare occasions during the year when the table was laden with bread, meat, cheese and sweet pastries, because everyday life for the Sardinians was hard and food was scarce.
A specifically Sardinian Christmas tradition is the large log, ‘su truncu 'e xena’, which is lit on Christmas Eve (sa notte 'e xena, meaning: the evening of the feast). If it burns until the following morning, this is considered a good omen. This custom has its origins in pagan fire rituals, and even today Sardinian families still sit around the fireplace on Christmas Eve. Children born on Christmas Eve are believed to be particularly protected from misfortune and illness in Sardinia. However, all Sardinian children are happy on Christmas morning, because that is when presents are given out, as in the rest of Italy. This is followed by another festive meal, and there is also extensive feasting on Boxing Day. Given the wonderful local delicacies that can be bought all over the island, it should not be difficult for our holiday home guests from faraway Germany to keep up with Sardinian Christmas traditions, at least in these respects.
By the way, if you are one of those who have mixed feelings about Christmas because you still haven't found a gift for the Sardinia lover in your life, I would like to recommend my book ‘Sardinia. Shepherds and flocks, show-offs and celebrities – poles of an archaic island’ (available here, for example, and in any well-stocked bookshop). In it, you will find curious, funny and educational stories from my more than 50 years of experience in Sardinia, as well as many magnificent photos that are guaranteed to give you wanderlust – not only at Christmas time.
With a Sardinian ‘Bonu Nadale’ and best wishes for 2020, I bid you farewell for today.
Yours, Joachim Waßmann
(Featured image: renato agostini, Creative Commons )