Bosa – City visit in Sardinia

Sardinia is the second largest island in the Mediterranean after Sicily. Up to 270 km ‘long’ and 145 km “wide”, it is six times the size of Majorca! Anyone who, as some people imagine, wants to circumnavigate the island in a day and ‘tick it off’ will reach their limits. Not to mention that it would be a shame to rush through all the sights. However, travelling ‘across’ the island, i.e. from the east to the west coast to Bosa and back, is just about possible.

Unlike our trip to Arbatax, the only thing on the agenda is visiting the town. No stops are planned, and the route to our destination is secondary. We have several routes to choose from for the journey to Bosa. My fellow passengers spontaneously opt for the route through the ‘Walachei’ because they assume it will be the most scenic. This leads to Lago di Posada, then to Onaní, Bitti, Bortigali and finally to Bosa. Google Maps estimates 180 km, lots of bends and a lot of time. ‘Never mind,’ quiet concerns are brushed aside, ‘we have time.’ I point out that this route could mean we miss our pre-booked lunch on the beach at Bosa Marina. Of course, nobody wants that. So the quick route suggestion is accepted.

We take the motorway to Cagliari, leave it behind Nuoro to follow the sign for Macomer and drive directly to Bosa on the SS 129. After just an hour and a half, we reach our destination and have enjoyed the journey.

Sardinia is rich in incredibly beautiful beaches and captivates visitors with its overwhelmingly fascinating nature. Beautiful towns, on the other hand, are few and far between. Bosa is the exception. A small town with only 8,000 inhabitants.

The first mention of ‘Bosa’ can be found on an inscription from the 9th century BC. A first comparison with Budoni comes to mind: Bosa is 3,000 years older. Respect! Founded by the Phoenicians, the town has survived a wide variety of rulers. First Carthage shaped the town, then Rome, followed by Byzantium, the Italian city-states, Spain and finally the Kingdom of Sardinia-Piedmont.

They have all left their mark. The 12th-century Malaspina Castle is particularly interesting. Malaspina! What a name! What a famous noble family! In comparison, the names ‘Meloni’ and ‘Ventroni’, which characterise Budoni, sound really petty bourgeois! And Budoni doesn't have a castle either. There is the new-fashioned, fortress-like town hall, but what is that compared to a castle adorning the townscape?

There is no historic centre in Budoni either. In Bosa, on the other hand, a stroll through the old town takes us through narrow streets lined with tall houses, bars, boutiques and restaurants. Everything exudes atmosphere, glows with history, and the streets repeatedly meet the Temo. This river was once the heart and lifeline of the city. It provided generations of citizens with a solid income through leather processing. Today, however, the old tanneries lining the left bank of the river are visibly ravaged by the ravages of time: the tannery no longer feeds anyone here, and the old houses are waiting to be given a better future. Nevertheless, they are surrounded by the decadent charm that can characterise historical buildings. In Budoni, we note with resignation that nowhere is there any sign of decay. There are no buildings of historical significance!

Before we set off for Bosa Marina to indulge in culinary delights after our cultural ones, we visit San Pietro Extramuros. I love how this church, which is more than a thousand years old, exudes dignity despite, or perhaps because of, its simplicity! Here, too, a comparison springs to mind. But let's leave that aside! Bosa and Budoni are separated by more than just 3,000 years. The places are in two completely different leagues!

In contrast, my stomach rebelled unmistakably in the church with a growl that broke the silence. I urge my friends to give up and go eat with me in Bosa Marina.

They want to know if you can eat right on the beach there, like in Budoni. – Yes! – Like in the Tavernetta? – I think so. ‘Do they serve seafood there?’ ‘No, I don't think so!’

Great disappointment all round. A restaurant right by the sea, and no fish? ‘Yes,’ I correct them, ‘they serve cucina di mare, just not seafood. Or would any of you ladies and gentlemen fancy fish and chips?’

An awkward silence ensues. So, in terms of food, the group agreed with me. We then had a good meal and even better drinks. I was praised for recommending Chelo as a really good place to eat. But all in all, they concluded, neither Bosa Marina nor Chelo could hold a candle to the comparable scenery in Budoni. The beaches, the harbour of Ottiolu, the cosy pubs on the beach: Budoni was much better in all these respects.

I couldn't and didn't want to disagree. It did me good. At least my adopted home of Budoni scored a consolation goal.

With a Sardinian ‘Adiosu’, I bid you farewell for today.

Joachim Waßmann