Ancient, but not old hat: the Sardinian carnival

Carnival in Italy – when they hear this phrase, many people probably picture the familiar images of Venetian mask wearers surrounded by canals, bridges, gondolas and palazzi. But did you know that Sardinia has a carnival tradition that is just as fascinating? Or, to be more precise, dozens of traditions (because masks and customs vary from place to place)?

Those who embark on the adventure of ‘Carnival in Sardinia’ will search in vain for mass-produced souvenir masks ‘Made in China’. Instead, open-minded travellers can gain a deep insight into the Sardinian soul and observe customs that have their origins in archaic rituals of winter expulsion, among other things, dating back to pre-Christian times.

These traditions have been preserved in their purest form in the heart of Sardinia, in the mountain villages of Barbagia. There, Carnival (Sardinian: Karrasecare) begins as early as 16/17 January. Then, in many communities, large fires are lit to celebrate the feast of Sant'Antonio, and the wearers of the masks typical of each locality appear for the first time in the Carnival season. This is why the Sardinians refer to this start of their carnival as Prima Essia – the first appearance. The interplay of the flickering firelight with the often eerie and mysterious masks creates an atmosphere that is difficult to resist and makes you feel as if you have been transported back to a long-gone, mythical age. The Sardinian carnival reaches its climax in the carnival week before Ash Wednesday (martedi grasso). Because the large number of local carnival customs would far exceed the scope of this article, two particularly impressive examples are presented below:

Mamoiada: Mamuthones and Issohadores

These strange figures wreak havoc in the idyllic village of Mamoiada. The Mamuthones wear black, wood-carved masks that only vaguely resemble human faces. They wrap themselves in black, shaggy skins and carry bells of various sizes on their backs, suspended from crossed leather straps, which can weigh between 20 and 30 kg. These visually and acoustically impressive monsters are accompanied by the Issohadores, who wear white masks and colourful traditional clothing. They use their ropes to catch the Mamuthones, but spectators, especially female ones, should also beware of them!

In this video from the Sardinian Tourist Board, you can admire the Mamuthones and Issohadores in action:

In Ottana, with its ancient 12th-century cathedral, the Boes (oxen) with their almost African-looking masks and their shepherds, the Merdules, who try to tame and subdue the Boes, cavort during the carnival season. The hard farming life and the struggle between man and nature are symbolised here. Ottana is also home to the only female character in the Sardinian carnival, the eerie, witch-like Filonzana. She spins a wool thread that represents the thread of life. Anyone who crosses her path must offer her something to drink, otherwise she will cut the thread. The connection to the Fates of Roman mythology and the Moirai of Greek mythology is obvious. The Filonzana can also ‘kill’ the Boes in this way, but they rise again after a while. This symbolises the cycle of becoming and passing away.

The Associazione Culturale Boes e Merdules has published this impressive video:

So you see: Sardinia is well worth a visit, even during carnival season!

With a Sardinian ‘Adiosu’, I bid you farewell for today.

Yours, Joachim Waßmann